Two Thousand Six Hundred (TTSH) Ver.1 General build thread

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LED-man
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Post by LED-man » Mon Dec 30, 2013 10:07 am

@zthee

Im the BOM is listed 6x 100N capaciator,
But the mouser number is for a 10N capaciator.
(The SNT 805)
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roglok
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Post by roglok » Mon Dec 30, 2013 11:47 am

those are for decoupling. not critical.

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Post by ualslosar » Tue Dec 31, 2013 4:28 am

FYI - Got an update from Mouser. Slide pots which were due to be shipped Mar 31/2014, was updated to Jan 31/2014 - or - was it 2015? (just kidding)

- There may be hope of eventually building these things in the New Year.

Take care

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Heavy Metal Kid
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Post by Heavy Metal Kid » Tue Dec 31, 2013 6:16 am

Yeah, I got the same update. Last parts of the Mouser order will be shipped in late January!

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Post by Kipling » Tue Dec 31, 2013 12:35 pm

Mine are still showing 27th March :| . Hopefully that'll change to Jan.

All the switches are Pending with no confirmed availability date yet. Hopefully Jan sometime.

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Post by kons » Tue Dec 31, 2013 12:36 pm

flts wrote:^- I'd use 4 or 5 pin (Neutrik) XLR & proper multicore DC power cable as well. That's what the GroupDIY 51x API "clone" racks use for example, feels much sturdier and more reliable than even the better DIN connectors I've tried.

And agreed, if you are planning to install the power supply to the same case, there's probably no need for fancy cabling and connectors. If you want to use an external linear PSU, that's another matter.

Well something like this would be ideal http://www.bugbrand.co.uk/index.php?mai ... ucts_id=87 ... and I agree about the 6pindins being not optimal... but I will run my 5U-MU from the same power supply and dotcom uses 6pindin as standard...

So the idea is a super solid linear power supply that sits on the floor in the corner and can run dc +-15v and 5v to different systems...

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Post by magman » Wed Jan 01, 2014 7:17 am

I have used similar connectors to those On the Bugbrand PSU for quite a few of my external PSU connections, like these:

Multi Pole (Metal) Connectors

I make up my own cables using 24/0.2 wire (which just fits through the cable clamp) then heat-shrink an outer sheath to keep things neat and add a layer of protection. for longer cables, I might be tempted to add a second heat-shrink layer, for added mechanical protection though.

You can see one of my setups in this old thread:

5U Case Design

On a side note, if you don't want to go down the Power One route, the Oakley PSU PCB along with the Yamaha transformer that I used in the case above is an alternate route to follow that also keeps mains outside of the case. You could mount the Oakley PSU in the standard TTSH metal case and use the case as a conveniently large heat-sink. This is the route I will probably go down myself, when I get round to ordering my own TTSH's.

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Post by DubplateDerek » Wed Jan 01, 2014 12:35 pm

Kipling wrote:Mine are still showing 27th March :| . Hopefully that'll change to Jan.

All the switches are Pending with no confirmed availability date yet. Hopefully Jan sometime.
Me too - still seeing 27th March for the pots.

But doesn't pending mean that those items are ready to go? Almost everything on my order, backorders excepted, is listed as 'pending'

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Post by Kipling » Wed Jan 01, 2014 1:54 pm

DubplateDerek wrote:
Kipling wrote:Mine are still showing 27th March :| . Hopefully that'll change to Jan.

All the switches are Pending with no confirmed availability date yet. Hopefully Jan sometime.
Me too - still seeing 27th March for the pots.

But doesn't pending mean that those items are ready to go? Almost everything on my order, backorders excepted, is listed as 'pending'
Normally yes - everything else is shown as in stock awaiting release, but the Switchcraft items are shown as " This product is on order with our manufacturer. Based on information provided by the manufacturer, we expect to ship this product to you on the date specified. You will receive an e-mail notification as soon as we have an expected in stock date."

But on the product page if I click on View Delivery Dates it gives:

Mouser Product Availability

No Stock
150On Order
Estimated Dispatch Date

02/01/2014

104 30/01/2014
46: Request Delivery Quote

Factory Lead Time

8 Weeks

..which implies it could be tomorrow if it's showing UK date format (probably) or 1st Feb if it's showing US date format. Confusing???

Anyway I doubt I'll be needing them for a few weeks yet.

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Post by satindas » Thu Jan 02, 2014 6:35 am

My Power-One HBB15-1.5 just turned up from Radwell and looks like a deal for $45US. However, I'm struggling to find detailed info on how to wire this thing properly. There's enough info on the case to sort the input jumpering but nowhere can I find info on the OVP add-on (which I fully intend to fit!) or how the +s and -s should be wired. :help:
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Post by roglok » Thu Jan 02, 2014 7:33 am

satindas wrote:My Power-One HBB15-1.5 just turned up from Radwell and looks like a deal for $45US. However, I'm struggling to find detailed info on how to wire this thing properly. There's enough info on the case to sort the input jumpering but nowhere can I find info on the OVP add-on (which I fully intend to fit!) or how the +s and -s should be wired. :help:
check this:

http://www.armspower.com/Products/Power ... /sense.pdf

also: there's a thread somewhere where daverj explains how the sense lines should be connected including a very nice diagram. can't find it right now - try the search...

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Post by wutierson » Thu Jan 02, 2014 9:27 am

Hi guys,
Anyone have the reference, part number or the measures/details of the power on/off button? I don't find the part number in the BOM...

thanks in advance!
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Post by satindas » Thu Jan 02, 2014 10:03 am

roglok wrote:
satindas wrote:My Power-One HBB15-1.5 just turned up from Radwell and looks like a deal for $45US. However, I'm struggling to find detailed info on how to wire this thing properly. There's enough info on the case to sort the input jumpering but nowhere can I find info on the OVP add-on (which I fully intend to fit!) or how the +s and -s should be wired. :help:
check this:

http://www.armspower.com/Products/Power ... /sense.pdf

also: there's a thread somewhere where daverj explains how the sense lines should be connected including a very nice diagram. can't find it right now - try the search...
Thanks roglok, lots of info there. I'll check out daverj's post if I can find it again (pretty sure I've seen it before) .
:tu:
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Post by sduck » Thu Jan 02, 2014 2:35 pm

I don't think using the sense lines for this application will make any difference. Wait, maybe you're building an external enclosure for it, and powering several things from there? Then by all means...
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Post by roglok » Thu Jan 02, 2014 5:07 pm

sduck wrote:I don't think using the sense lines for this application will make any difference. Wait, maybe you're building an external enclosure for it, and powering several things from there? Then by all means...
true, but even when not using remote sensing, the sense lines must be connected to the power lines on the PSU PCB.

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Post by sduck » Thu Jan 02, 2014 5:37 pm

..
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Post by Cablebasher » Mon Jan 06, 2014 5:31 am

Have any UK based fellows purchased their power supply elements yet?

If so where?

I have only ever dealt with eurorack powered DIY projects so this side of things (what i need to buy, how i install it, how i make sure it doesn't explode etc) is the bit I'm most worried about.

thanks as always.

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Post by satindas » Mon Jan 06, 2014 7:52 am

Cablebasher wrote:Have any UK based fellows purchased their power supply elements yet?

If so where?

I have only ever dealt with eurorack powered DIY projects so this side of things (what i need to buy, how i install it, how i make sure it doesn't explode etc) is the bit I'm most worried about.

thanks as always.
Unless you're planning to power additional modules its probably a good idea to order one of the specified DC-DC converters or this one from Farnell which is a fair bit less expensive. Any of those merely require the addition of a suitable wallwart. If on the other hand you intend to power additional modules you should look at either this from Oakley or one of the Power-One HBB15-1.5 supplies. Bear in mind though that using a Linear supply such as the Power One will mean bringing mains voltage inside the case of the TTSH and you better make sure you Earth it correctly or you might end up :deadbanana: . You could of course mount the supply in an external housing but you still need the Earthing to be correctly wired.The Oakley PSU requires an external AC-DC transformer (Yamaha PA-20 or PA-30) available from Thomman. The Power-Ones can be had from mouser or maybe you can get lucky and find a good deal on ebay...Check the PLL Centre ebay shop.

If you're not confident with mains voltage you should stick to the solutions which use a wall wart or external step down PSU.
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Post by elmegil » Mon Jan 06, 2014 10:51 am

Speaking of DC-DC converters, I'm not too keen to order from Newark/Farnell, because anything that ships from the UK gets a $20 markup. I'm looking for a 1A converter that can be subbed at a slightly cheaper price than the $104 that DigiKey wants for the one in the BOM....

I'm curious if anyone has any thoughts on this one?

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/e ... ND/2256456

I'll be looking for data sheets to compare pinouts and such later, but I have to run right now, figured I'd toss it out there....

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Post by sduck » Mon Jan 06, 2014 1:45 pm

That one's a 6-DIP, the specified part is 5-DIP. Don't know what the difference is, or if there is one.

Digikey has the specified cheapo one - http://www.digikey.com/product-search/e ... EE00CC18-L - it's only .5A, but zthee uses one in his build docs, so I'd imagine it'd work. Unless you're adding other stuff, of course.
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Post by elmegil » Mon Jan 06, 2014 2:05 pm

I was just looking at the expensive one's specs and I'd swear that family, at least, specified 6 pins. Yeah, DigiKey has the PXD3024WD15 listed as a 6-DIP as well.

The pin layout looks the same. The power spec looks the same. I'm leery of the .5A one due to the possibility of wanting to add MIDI onboard.

In other news, he says a 12VDC 1A transformer, but I don't see where he specifies center positive or center negative?

Trying to knock out a few more of the less obvious bits here....hoping for that reverb group buy :-)

Thanks!

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Post by elmegil » Mon Jan 06, 2014 10:28 pm

Bueller... ?

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Post by sduck » Mon Jan 06, 2014 11:43 pm

Look on the VCF build page - you can clearly see the holes provided on the pcb, and the traces. It looks like it'll work with both kinds of units, including that one you were asking about, so you're probably good. It's got holes for at least 2 kinds of units.

center positive or center negative? - I think this just depends on which one you have - just run the wires to the appropriate connectors internally.

Perhaps there'll be more clear answers to all this when the build doc gets finished.
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Post by elmegil » Tue Jan 07, 2014 12:22 am

sduck wrote:Look on the VCF build page - you can clearly see the holes provided on the pcb, and the traces. It looks like it'll work with both kinds of units, including that one you were asking about, so you're probably good. It's got holes for at least 2 kinds of units.
Yep, that looks good :-)
sduck wrote: center positive or center negative? - I think this just depends on which one you have - just run the wires to the appropriate connectors internally.
Right. I was thinking of PCB mounted power jacks, but clearly that's not what's going on here :-)

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Post by Heavy Metal Kid » Tue Jan 07, 2014 2:24 pm

satindas wrote:If you're not confident with mains voltage you should stick to the solutions which use a wall wart or external step down PSU.
The build materials list a "12-18V 1500mA DC adaptor". Will any adapter with those specs do? Typically a laptop adapter?

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