SN-Voice euro build thread

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SN-Voice euro build thread

Post by Rod Serling Fan Club » Fri Dec 14, 2012 4:49 pm

I thought we could try to summarize the build info here. Please feel free to add relevant info.

PCBs ordering and links to build info: http://www.electro-music.com/forum/topic-55170.html

Build documents for the PCB: http://electro-music.com/forum/topic-53420.html

Scott Stites has a wealth of information on this project at his site: http://www.birthofasynth.com/Thomas_Hen ... _main.html

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Things particular to the "HI-SCORE" euro panel:

For the "EG, FLO, 50%, 20%" rotary switch, you can use any rotational switch with 4 or more positions whose body will fit. These are usually expensive but smallbear offers affordable 6 position switches here: http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=581

For the range (RNG) switch you need a SP3T on-on-on switch

The "Time" potentiometer in the EG section is the modification see here: http://www.birthofasynth.com/Thomas_Hen ... _mods.html

12V info:
appliancide wrote:Here are the notes I have for the SN Voice:
SMS Audio Electronics:
SN76477 Voice: operates on +/-15v "for +/-12v, change R60 and R59 to 1.2M (instead 1.5M)
R28 to 37.6K or substitute it by 50K~100K trim-pot
R31 to 60K or substitute it by a 100K trim-pot
R52 to 180K"
(People on several old threads on e-m suggested that no changes may actually be necessary)

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Post by mOBiTh » Fri Dec 14, 2012 4:56 pm

Aha, good info! Thanks :)

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Post by frozenkore » Fri Dec 14, 2012 4:57 pm

Thanks for posting this! For the switch, could you just use one pole of one of these? That would eliminate two dead positions.
Cheers!
Brian

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Post by Dego » Fri Dec 14, 2012 6:29 pm


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Re: SN-Voice euro build thread

Post by fonik » Fri Dec 14, 2012 7:09 pm

Rod Serling Fan Club wrote:For the range (RNG) switch you need a SP3T on-on-on switch
<wiseheimer mode on>
this might be old news, however, SP3T is true for a rotary. if you wanted to use a toggle switch you will have to look for a DPDT on-on-on.
<wiseheimer mode off>

BTW the module on page 18 of the build documentation is MINE :party:

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Post by seank » Sat Dec 15, 2012 11:26 am

mouser bom:

https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/P ... 78c3232868

all pots/rotary switch ordered from small bear.

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Post by sauce » Sun Dec 16, 2012 2:20 am

What about jacks?

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Post by frozenkore » Mon Dec 17, 2012 8:04 am

sauce wrote:What about jacks?
A lot of people will leave jacks out of Mouser projects as it comes down to personal preference (i.e., some people want to use 3.5mm, some want to try and bananaify things). Since this is Euro, some might want to use erthenvar jacks; I'll be using kobiconn jacks because I like the tabs for wiring applications.
Cheers!
Brian

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Post by bsmith » Mon Dec 17, 2012 8:15 am

So this would be a good choice for this panel? Main reason to go for the smallbear one would be economic?

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Post by appliancide » Mon Dec 17, 2012 8:23 pm

Don't be a Mr Bungle like me and solder C18 into the circuit! :doh: It is part of the envelope mod, and will get installed during panel wiring.

I test fit all of the panel components, and while it's a little tight around the envelope pots and standoff, everything fits like a charm, even with standard 16mm pots.

Image

The little Small Bear rotary switch has a .100" pitch, meaning it fits perfectly on perfboard. I am going to use a small piece of perf to wire the switch, and another to make a mta100 to euro-plug.

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Post by seank » Tue Dec 18, 2012 1:12 am

yesssss! more pictures please! i don't want to fuck mine up.

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Re: SN-Voice euro build thread

Post by Dego » Tue Dec 18, 2012 3:26 pm

fonik wrote:
Rod Serling Fan Club wrote:For the range (RNG) switch you need a SP3T on-on-on switch
<wiseheimer mode on>
this might be old news, however, SP3T is true for a rotary. if you wanted to use a toggle switch you will have to look for a DPDT on-on-on.
<wiseheimer mode off>

BTW the module on page 18 of the build documentation is MINE :party:
Any suggestions for a DPDT on-on-on switch?

I use green NKK usually same as appliance. I cant find any such switch.
:(

Image

I built the PCB in 2007 :hihi:

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Post by Dego » Tue Dec 18, 2012 3:48 pm

bsmith wrote:
So this would be a good choice for this panel? Main reason to go for the smallbear one would be economic?
Yes, good choice and yes.

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Post by appliancide » Tue Dec 18, 2012 3:51 pm

The NKK I am using is part number M2024SS1W01. You can search your favorite distributors for "M2024", since that is the part of the part number that breaks down the switch circuit. The rest of the number has to do with the toggle length, bushing size, terminals, etc.

TE has one also...part number A211SYZQ04.

There are probably a few other choices as well. Whatever you get, read the datasheet. SP3T switches are built using DPDT bodies, and will almost always need an external jumper to function correctly.

Here is the appropriate blurb from the NKK datasheet:
Image

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Post by Dego » Tue Dec 18, 2012 5:05 pm

:love:

Thanks!

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Post by bsmith » Tue Dec 18, 2012 5:19 pm

appliancide wrote:Don't be a Mr Bungle like me and solder C18 into the circuit! :doh: It is part of the envelope mod, and will get installed during panel wiring.
Ok - I'm confused now after reading this about C18 - I don't see any special mention of it in the documentation pdf wiring diagram, just c15, but I do see on that third schematic page that C18 is part of 'Attack/Decay Timing capactior' with pin 8 of U1... And not that it's any kind of reference, but the picture at the top of the documentation pdf has a picture of that guy just soldered in there as it would appear you would from looking at the screen. What are we supposed to do with that c18 during wiring? Envelope mod?

edit, ah ok, bottom of this thomas henry mods page:
http://www.birthofasynth.com/Thomas_Hen ... _mods.html
so this then is for 'Time' in the eg section I assume?

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Post by Dego » Tue Dec 18, 2012 6:53 pm

Correct mate

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Post by appliancide » Tue Dec 18, 2012 7:24 pm

An axial cap would almost be better for C18, if you haven't already ordered the parts to stuff the PCB. Here's what I did:
Image
Image
In this pic you can see it soldered into the board, along with the wire that will attach to one side of the "time" pot. The other side will attach to the + side of the cap. Also, make sure the + terminal isn't touching any nearby pads or exposed leads where it enters the bottom of the cap.
In the foreground, you can see how I plan to wire power to the euro power connector, and how I am going to wire the rotary switch. I plan on shorting positions 1&2 and positions 5&6 together so there's one redundant position on each end of the switch.

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Post by bsmith » Tue Dec 18, 2012 8:12 pm

thank you so much for posting these pics appliancide!!

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Post by bsmith » Wed Dec 19, 2012 9:01 am

ok - so for pots in the noise section, is the panel intent:
vc noise init (r48) the central pot under the space invaders dude
vc noise atten (r47) pot above cv freq jack
noise filter (r54) pot above filter

pulse/noise volume (r19) - i dunno - where?

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Post by appliancide » Wed Dec 19, 2012 12:17 pm

bsmith wrote: pulse/noise volume (r19) - i dunno - where?
It was not included on this panel. It is just an attenuator on the vco/noise out.

I'm glad you find my pictures useful. I should point out that the way I am approaching my build is not the only way to do things. For example, C18 could also be attached to the "time" pot instead of the board.

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Post by seank » Wed Dec 19, 2012 8:18 pm

seriously helpful! thank you so much. i'm waiting for a thumbs up on your build (with plenty of photos hopefully!) before i start mine.

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Post by appliancide » Thu Dec 20, 2012 8:56 pm

A little bit of progress today. I decided to wire my two panels separately, to avoid doubling mistakes, and also to see if I could make the second one nicer/neater.

Power cable with hand painted red stripe, because the red stripe is serious.
Image

edit: the picture showing the switch showed it wired incorrectly, so I deleted it. :nut:
Last edited by appliancide on Sun Dec 23, 2012 4:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: SN-Voice euro build thread

Post by meatcliff » Thu Dec 20, 2012 10:45 pm

Dego wrote:I built the PCB in 2007 :hihi:
I got a PCB from one of the first runs... are you freakin telling me i've been sitting on this PCB for five something years??? man this PCB build backlog i've got is worse than i thought...

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Re: SN-Voice euro build thread

Post by futuresoundsystems » Sun Dec 23, 2012 4:08 am

meatcliff wrote:
Dego wrote:I built the PCB in 2007 :hihi:
I got a PCB from one of the first runs... are you freakin telling me i've been sitting on this PCB for five something years??? man this PCB build backlog i've got is worse than i thought...
Same here. Even worse when I consider this was originally going to be a 5U project for me... :eek:
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http://www.futuresoundsystems.co.uk

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