[Orders Closed] - Euro Panels for Thomas White LPGs

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amnesia
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Post by amnesia » Sun Mar 11, 2012 6:59 pm

Does anyone know what vactrol the Plan B LPG uses? That was the best sounding LPG sound out of all I have owned

Plan B LPG
QMMG
Optomix
LPG

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simfonik
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Post by simfonik » Sun Mar 11, 2012 7:04 pm

Is there a spec difference between these vactrols?

http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=347

http://www.alliedelec.com/search/produc ... #tab=specs

The latter is the part number on the parts list provided by Thomas. Did anyone order their vactrols from somewhere other than Allied? $16 is pretty pricey.

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msprigings
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Post by msprigings » Sun Mar 11, 2012 9:03 pm

Finished. First DIY module :D

Image

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simfonik
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Post by simfonik » Sun Mar 11, 2012 9:19 pm

msprigings wrote:Finished. First DIY module :D

Image
Nice! :tu:

Can you post a side shot?

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msprigings
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Post by msprigings » Sun Mar 11, 2012 9:30 pm

The topmost board is what's labeled as "board #2" on my wiring schematic above.

Image

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simfonik
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Post by simfonik » Sun Mar 11, 2012 10:01 pm

Thanks for the photo. Nice build!

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msprigings
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Post by msprigings » Sun Mar 11, 2012 10:07 pm

The wiring on the first board was a rat's nest :hide:

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djthomaswhite
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Post by djthomaswhite » Tue Mar 13, 2012 1:26 pm

Hello RLPG loyal customers,

An error in the PCB has been reported to me by the amazing Dave Brown. One of the traces got moved too close to the PCB pads and the ground plane is cut off resulting a in a floating pin that should be grounded. The good news is that it only takes 1 resistor clipping soldered between U2 pins 5 and 10 to fix it. Details and pictures courtesy of Mr. Brown can be found on the RLPG page at my site:

http://www.naturalrhythmmusic.com/lopass.html

I apologize for this oversight! I am thankful it is an easy fix and for the catch by Dave. Thank you again for your order and support.

Thomas White
Natural Rhythm
www.naturalrhythmmusic.com

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amnesia
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Post by amnesia » Wed Mar 14, 2012 2:03 am

what are the blue trimmers for? Is it to adjust the filter or the vactrols?

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Post by gwaidan » Wed Mar 14, 2012 8:01 am

Both-it's to get a comparable response range between the two channels.

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simfonik
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Post by simfonik » Thu Mar 15, 2012 11:07 pm

I'm trying to figure out the orientation of the 3PDT toggle switches. If I'm looking directly at the panel (Clarkes), the left toggle has the "Q11" side facing outward. I'm stumped as to which of the terminals get wired to (correctly) on the PCB. :help:

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Post by Buckyball » Thu Mar 15, 2012 11:28 pm

If you're looking at the schematic, the wiring is shown as if you were looking at the back of the switch with the filter-only position at the top (up) and the amp-only position at the bottom (down).

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Post by simfonik » Thu Mar 15, 2012 11:37 pm

My problem is I don't know up from down on this thing. :oops:

Here's what I'm looking at: http://www.simfonik.com/wp-content/uplo ... toggle.JPG

Any idea what # that left pin is? I'm thinking it's 3.

Edit: The keyway is up, right?

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Post by Buckyball » Thu Mar 15, 2012 11:49 pm

It's symmetrical. Just flip the switch and see which axis it moves along, and then put it in position so that the three positions are up/middle/down with respect to that Clarke68 panel. Since you're building with the Clarke68 panel, the filter-only mode should be the "down" position. So when you connect the wire, the schematic looks upside-down. If you're looking at the back of the switch once it's attached to the front panel, S1 is the bottom-right, and S3 is the bottom-middle, and S6 is the top-left.

Edit: I've just looked at your picture. The left pin should have nothing soldered to it. S1 is the right pin, and S2 is the middle pin. (I'm assuming you've attached it so that the switch moves along the correct axis. It looks like you did.)

Second edit: I don't understand how you could think S3 is the left pin. S3 is in the middle of a side, not on a corner.

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Post by clarke68 » Fri Mar 16, 2012 2:48 am

simfonik wrote:I'm trying to figure out the orientation of the 3PDT toggle switches.
Hopefully you got it after reading Buckyball's explanation, but if not here's my take: the wiring of the switch doesn't have anything to do with the panel. Just wire it up the way it is on Thomas' schematic (RLPG 3.2 Schematic Diagram.pdf), and use enough wire that you can mount it to the panel in any orientation. Then mount it to the panel so that you hear the resonance kick in when the switch is in the down position. If you get it "wrong" just rotate the switch the other way.

Make sense?

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msprigings
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Post by msprigings » Fri Mar 16, 2012 6:12 am

If you are using that red Mountain Switch from Thomas's BOM then you want the side with the numbers/serial number/part code whatever that is facing up. Then you'll want to wire it like posted earlier in the thread.

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Post by bsmith » Fri Mar 16, 2012 2:24 pm

msprigings wrote:If you are using that red Mountain Switch from Thomas's BOM then you want the side with the numbers/serial number/part code whatever that is facing up. Then you'll want to wire it like posted earlier in the thread.
hmmmmmmmm...
I've got two of these mostly built up and vca is working, lpg is working (and sounds killer!!!) - but filter with resonance is not happening on either - both are behaving identically. Resonance pot is doing nothing.
My understanding is that the switch orientation would not matter as far as the actual wiring. But both switches are upside down from what I think you're saying - numbers on top of the switch and s1 in the upper left. looking at the part data sheet - I don't see how it would be relevant - http://www.mouser.com/catalog/specsheets/MS-100875.pdf - but I'll try reversing if there is some direcectional thing about it - but really?
right now they're both just set direct with the jumpers - when the panels get here i'll go through setting them up in sum.
but in the meantime - can anyone see why the resonance wouldn't be happening (filter and 'both' are really the same deal on both builds).
I see builds where guys have resistors left off in the mix section - but that wouldn't have anything to do with this would it?

edit: and yeah i stuck that jumper between 5 and 10 on the tl074.

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Image
Last edited by bsmith on Fri Mar 16, 2012 2:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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clarke68
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Post by clarke68 » Fri Mar 16, 2012 2:34 pm

The switch in this photo isn't wired up the same way as the diagram that msprigings posted above. That would do it...
bsmith wrote:Image

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Post by bsmith » Fri Mar 16, 2012 3:14 pm

clarke68 wrote:The switch in this photo isn't wired up the same way as the diagram that msprigings posted above. That would do it...
Ok just re-did it as i understand that diagram is telling me, getting the same thing, resonance is doing nothing - i must be missing something about this because it seems to me the switch was wired identically before, albeit with the part number on the opposite side of the switch.
Here's what it looks like now:
Image

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Post by clarke68 » Fri Mar 16, 2012 4:07 pm

bsmith wrote:it seems to me the switch was wired identically before...
Oh dang I'm sorry...I've messed you up. I was seeing the diagram "sideways". If the switch direction is vertical in your last picture (up & down in relation to the table, rather than side-to-side) then you have it right as far as I can tell.

A couple of obvious things, which is (apparently) all I'll be good for until I can get home and look at mine:

1.) Resonance only works in "Filter" mode. You'll hear no resonance in VCA or Both modes.

2.) Switch to Filter mode, crank up the resonance, and turn down the Offset. It should howl at this point, the resonance is very obvious. If not, there's something up.

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Post by simfonik » Fri Mar 16, 2012 10:09 pm

Buckyball wrote:Second edit: I don't understand how you could think S3 is the left pin. S3 is in the middle of a side, not on a corner.
I was looking at the data sheet for the switch and referring to terminal 3, not S3 on the PCB.

http://www.mouser.com/catalog/specsheets/MS-100875.pdf

I think I understand what to do though, based on the replies you and Clarke provided. Thanks!

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Post by msprigings » Fri Mar 16, 2012 10:17 pm

bsmith wrote:Image
that switch looks correct to me.

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Post by bsmith » Sat Mar 17, 2012 12:49 am

Thanks clarke and msprigings. I built a third and same thing, so at least I'm screwing up consistently somehow. The thing is that the both and filter mode are identical - I understand that the resonance will only happen in the filter mode, it's like it isn't getting to it - the cv in and offset knobs both act exactly the same in that switch position as in the middle position.

edit -aaaaand i got it!
clumsy, careless mistake! i'm using dual vactrols and i didn't cross that middle leg over - it show it on the pcb but my eyeballs kind of stopped at that line going the opportune middle hole. anyway HOORAY this sounds great! rowwwrrr! here's the image on dj thomas' website that made me put my ipad down and jump out of bed to run upstairs an warm up the iron:

Image

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Post by clarke68 » Sat Mar 17, 2012 2:07 am

bsmith wrote:I built a third and same thing, so at least I'm screwing up consistently somehow.
Looking at the schematic, the resonance section is really simple...it's just 3 pins off of U1, one cap, one resistor, and one pot. Double check your parts values (that seems like an error that could easily be replicated 3x):

U1 - TL084
C10 - 33pF
R18 - 50k
Resonance Pot - 50k

I don't know what to say beyond that (other than the obvious stuff, like cold solder joints, etc.). There are a couple of lengthy build threads for the RLPG here and at electro-music.com, you might check those for people who had trouble with the resonance.

Edit - Awesome! Glad to hear you got it howling!

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Post by rico loverde » Sat Mar 17, 2012 1:04 pm

bsmith wrote: here's the image on dj thomas' website that made me put my ipad down and jump out of bed to run upstairs an warm up the iron:
haha thats so funny. i love those aha moments. the damn iron can never warm up fast enough.

i just finished populating mine and am about to wire it up in a few hours. fingers crossed.
works for Darkplace Manufacturing

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