BugBrand WorkshopCrusher Build Thread

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BugBrand WorkshopCrusher Build Thread

Post by BugBrand » Tue Oct 21, 2014 6:01 am

The BugBrand WorkshopCrusher is released from 24th October 2014 as a full DIY kit - kits are made up and stocked by Thonk.
(as always with Thonk, the kits are very nicely made up - super clear!)

The kit is also used for workshop events I run, with the debut being at the Sines & Squares Festival, Manchester 24-26th October 2014

http://sines-squares.org/

http://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/bugbrand-workshopcrusher/

The kit allows you to build a complete, but compact Analogue Sample-Rate Reducer - a direct descendent of my MicroCrusher design.
The kit contains all parts, with everything being mounted direct to the PCB. The only tools required are a soldering setup (iron, stand, cleaner and solder) and a pair of wire-snips.

The devices runs from a standard 9V DC input (Boss style centre negative) - this is not included! And no enclosure is used - the circuit board is 'raw' - but I did include mounting holes and extra prototyping points for experimental expansion (for the intrepid).

A full set of documentation is now online: http://www.bugbrand.co.uk/docs/workshopcrusher.pdf
This includes:
- overview of the kit and components
- introduction to soldering
- the actual kit building
- circuit analysis
- BOM, Parts Placement and Schematic

This thread is the place for asking any questions - if you have problems or if you want to know more.

[soundcloud url="https://api.soundcloud.com/tracks/163246801" params="auto_play=false&hide_related=false&show_comments=true&show_user=true&show_reposts=false&visual=true" width="100%" height="450" iframe="true" /]

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Last edited by BugBrand on Thu Oct 23, 2014 6:36 am, edited 4 times in total.

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Castle Rocktronics
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Post by Castle Rocktronics » Tue Oct 21, 2014 10:07 pm

:love:

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Post by Paranormal Patroler » Wed Oct 22, 2014 6:45 am

Oooh, sweet format. Any audio demos we can listen to??
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Post by Reality Checkpoint » Wed Oct 22, 2014 6:54 am


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Post by Paranormal Patroler » Wed Oct 22, 2014 6:55 am

Thank you very much! :tu:
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Post by BugBrand » Thu Oct 23, 2014 6:37 am

Updated with the full guide as PDF - lots of details!
[please let me know if you happen to spot any errors]

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Post by pricklyrobot » Thu Oct 23, 2014 1:13 pm

Neat!

I made a pedal from this old layout a few years ago:
Image
Sounded cool but had a noticeable background whine (clock noise?) that I could never get rid of.

Will anyone be distributing the kit (or even just a PCB) in the US?

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Post by BugBrand » Thu Oct 23, 2014 3:31 pm

Yeah, various people reported whine with the old Crusher designs based on the AD781 [though sometimes also perhaps down to trying the LM398 S/H chip and/or using booster chips to generate bipolar from 9v] - personally I found things good when I did my own layouts/boards. Well, anyways, moved on a long way since those days!

US availability -- I think there's a slim chance one particular place in the US may get a few kits, but the kits are really Steve Thonk's drive and I think he's quite used to selling to anywhere in the world. And, no, no plain PCBs, sorry.

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Post by Thonk Support » Fri Oct 24, 2014 3:41 am

Thonk - CLICK HERE - Modular Synth DIY + Eurorack Accessories Store

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Post by Thonk Support » Fri Oct 24, 2014 3:44 am

Also because this thing is so good for self-lead building in a group or workshop, i'm offering a discount where if you buy ten kits you get 20% off :tu:

Would be a nice project to arrange informally in your local hackspace or similar. Email me for details.
Last edited by Thonk Support on Fri Oct 24, 2014 4:06 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Ginko » Fri Oct 24, 2014 4:02 am

Monobass wrote:Also because this thing is so good for building in a group or workshop, i'm offering a discount where if you buy ten kits you get 20% off :tu:

Would be a nice project to arrange informally in your local hackspace or similar. Email me for details.
I might be up for this, there are certainly a whole bunch of students who would probably like to do it in Newport, they have been asking me to sort out more electronics activities - being as I am so close distance-wise to you Tom would you be up for me doing this?

I also believe there are still some places available for the Sunday workshop at Sines and Squares

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Post by Thonk Support » Fri Oct 24, 2014 4:05 am

Sorry, to be clear, I'm not suggesting you can buy Tom Bugs involvement :hihi: I'm just suggested this can be done informally, without profit.
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Post by BugBrand » Fri Oct 24, 2014 4:19 am

Yeah, further workshops run by me should be possible - especially with you, Aidan, as you're so close -- guess I'll meet you other the weekend.

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Post by Ginko » Fri Oct 24, 2014 5:00 am

Yes I understood Steve, I actually meant I could run a workshop for the crusher, but thought Tom might actually fancy it being as he lives down the road (and a bittle).

I did a Swashbuckler workshop as a 1st year induction a few weeks back and the students loved it and a bunch were asking when they would get to do more electronics, there isn't anything else like that planned for the course though as it stands so it would have to be extra-curricular or summink.

I can probe for interest to begin with of course

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Post by c1t1zen » Sat Nov 08, 2014 9:52 pm

First build of the Workshop Crusher and I get audio pass through but no, bitcrushing when switching the bypass switch back and forth.

I have another one to build and I hope to spot my error, but any troubleshooting advice would be helpful. I tried swapping the 4066 and 40106 with other ones I had without any change, now swapped back to originals.

hmm :despair:

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Post by Thonk Support » Sun Nov 09, 2014 3:47 am

Hey c1t1zen,

Best place to start is to post photos of both sides of your PCB.

What PSU are you using?
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Post by c1t1zen » Sun Nov 09, 2014 8:34 pm

Good Call.

I can take a better pic if I don't resolve it.

The second kit I built works GREEAAAT! :yay:

There's three places I think it can be. Is the fuse cap directional? Maybe this since I flipped it in the second build.
How about the square caps? I don't think so because of the silkscreen.

Also I keep having standoff issues, First kit I had in my backpack and I bent a leg...re-bending it back into order it snapped off. So I went to my backup collection but they have different legs. They are not round or tapered. The second kit I opened was missing a standoff. I later found in my standoff collection single rows that had matching leg tapering. On the second kit I used these.

Gonna go test the resettable fuse direction and report back...

I'm back and that wasn't the trick.
Still no dice.
I really think it's something soldered bad or bad chips. The one that works sounds awesome.

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Post by Thonk Support » Mon Nov 10, 2014 3:39 am

Hi,

Need a good square-on image of both sides of the board where all components can be seen on the top side in order to help really.

The fuse isn't polarised.

By standoff do you mean the IC socket? Any socket that fits will be fine.

If you have a working one and a malfunctioning one and a multimeter then you can start comparing some voltages between them.
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Post by BugBrand » Mon Nov 10, 2014 6:10 am

OK! Interesting that the 2nd one works fine..

Fuses & box-caps - correct, unpolarized - insert either way.

Guessing you mean IC sockets for the 'standoff'.

Either -- you've done something funny around the switching OR the clock is somehow not correct for the S/H.

From the image - looks like the cap of the clock (C5) is slightly wonky.
I guess there's a slim chance if you've not connected that correctly then the clock will be running way above audio rates (correct range is c.600Hz to 100kHz).

One builder in the Manchester workshops managed to swap the two pots - the problem then being that the rate pot only dialed in a very small change to the clock rate. You could check this by turning the pot fully anti-clockwise, then measuring the resistance between the outer pins (should be 1M - if it is 10K then you done the booboo!)

By the way, the chips are fairly rugged it seems -- a couple of people put the CMOS chips in backwards and they still worked when connected the correct way (which surprised me, for sure - I thought CMOS chips would die in the blink of an eye)

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Post by c1t1zen » Mon Nov 10, 2014 3:08 pm

Yes, Sorry IC Sockets.

I noticed a few other places I need to recheck the soldering on. There is a really high pitch sound. So I'll check the clock area...and the pots.

Thanks for the quick replies.

BRB :tu:

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Post by c1t1zen » Mon Nov 10, 2014 5:28 pm

:bang:

Reversed the pots.

Probably after I was trying to juggle them in the air.

I now have two working Crushers! :cloud: 9!!!



PS found the rogue IC Socket, that was hiding under a breadboard. :deadbanana:

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Post by BugBrand » Tue Nov 11, 2014 5:37 am

Congratulations!
Desoldering & swapping the pots is pretty difficult, so well done to have sorted that out successfully.

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Post by c1t1zen » Sun Nov 30, 2014 12:33 am



I modded one with those cheap vactrols from Elec-Goldmine (NSL-32 out of spec) and built an angle bracket in the prototype area. That's so useful I'm going to remember to add those to my own creations!
I used sockets for the vactrol so I can swamp in different specced versions. The slow resistor closing makes a wicked swish sound!
The vactrol is parallel to the Rate knob, so I can still adjust the depth.

I was thinking about pulling out a few clocks from the 40106 and then cycling through them with a counter CMOS...and I realized it was all feature creep. :eek:

Best to first test I can build a simple small panel.
Seems to run fine on 12v.
:guinness:

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Post by Thonk Support » Sun Nov 30, 2014 5:20 am

nice work c1t1zen :)
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Post by pricklyrobot » Wed Dec 17, 2014 11:56 am

Looks like Analogue Haven is stocking some now:
http://analoguehaven.com/thonk/bugbrand ... mpletekit/

Are the PCB dimensions listed somewhere? I'd like to build one as a guitar pedal. Looks like it ought to fit a 125B enclosure, just from eyeballing the photos...

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