the DIY cases thread!

[electricanada]

my new 18U begins.

CNC cut furniture grade birch ply.
Doepfer PSU3 x3,
6x synthrotec bus boards,
6x sythracks.com 104 rails and ends

Nice! Looks like you have a second one in the works. Would you share the file on Thingiverse or somewhere?

[McRINdk]

Nice! Looks like you have a second one in the works. Would you share the file on Thingiverse or somewhere?

Re second one, Nope the second one is just the sacrificial base plate to protect the CNC bed and make sure the downside cut is smooth. However there is a little 3U 104HP skiff for percussion that sits either infront or on top of the main case.

Re plans. Sure can, I'll share pdf cut file and internals plan file (pdf and ai) with the community as soon as I've ironed out the bugs. I didn't want to use T joints so had to file all corners by hand also I buggered up a CNC setting so all finger joints were out by.5mm so hand filled all those to. So once I'm sure it all works Ill share it. pdf or ai

For those interested, the other info for the build is as follows

• -all sides are 12 mm ply,
  -6mm CNC mill bit used.
  -Likely use a light stain with satin coat or just bee wax
  -Glued only
  -It will have french cleats on the back so I can easily mount it on the wall (permanent mounted cleats) when its banned from its usual position on the dining room table
  -The curve of the case is true Golden Mean.
  -Back is straight rather than Goike style as I need it to wall mount.
  -3U Skiff fits on top or in front. for dedicated percussion or control, or just overflow.
  -Corners/edges will be 4mm routed to round
  -Rubber feet on base to allow key board cable to run underneath

Inspiration from Goike, Lamond, Pittsburgh, old moog and Scandinavian wood look

[umma gumma]

hey, cleats on the back for wall mount is a fantastic idea!

I think I will do that, too

[Plugler]

Today I finished my Case # 2, so I took some pictures for you.

My both Eurorack cases are flight-case alike and nearly identical. Only the hinges and latches are mounted opposite, to make sure that only the corresponding cover are fitting.
Very sturdy, out of 18mm "plywood panel coated with dark brown phenolic resin coating" (in German much shorter: "Siebdruckplatte" ) See: https://www.wisaplywood.com/products/pr ... wisa-wire/
I built them with lids, so I can transport them. Between lid and case, there is a self-adhesive compression tape (in German: Kompriband), to protect the inner from dust and moisture.

As feet I took a special variant with a height of 25mm, so the upper case fits snugly over the strap handle of the lower case.

Other then recommended from Doepfer, I took 4-pole XLR connectors, so it is impossible to confuse it with audio-XLR (3-pole)!


I used per case:
- 1x Doepfer A-100 DIY Kit #1
- 2x TIPTOP Z-Ears Tabletop.
- 1x Neutrik NC4 MD-LX-B - for power connection
- 1x Neutrik NC4 FXX-B - for power connection
- 2x Adam Hall 17370 C Butterfly Latch
- 2x Adam Hall 17370 K Keeper
- 2x Adam Hall 2251 Detachable Hinges
- 1x Adam Hall 3414 BRN Strap Handle brown
- 7x Adam Hall 4904TP Rubber Foot (4x for case / 3x for lid)
- plywood panel 18mm, details see above
- plenty of screws


Enjoy... :-)
























Ready! Time to get more modules...




Did I already mention, that I love self adhesive velcro tape?
I used it to mount the Alesis nanoverb 2 on the right side of the lower case.

[monotrome]

My holiday project: a 3U/60HP case with plywood sides and plywood covered with corduroy for the middle part. 60HP frame from Clicks&Clocks.

[Plugler]

My holiday project: a 3U/60HP case with plywood sides and plywood covered with corduroy for the middle part. 60HP frame from Clicks&Clocks.

Well done!

Corduroy!

What PSU did you use?
I'm still searching a cheap, but good PSU for small (3U) cases.

The "Doepfer A-100SSB Small Supply/Bus" would fit my needs, but Doepfer mentions a small, but serious restriction:

"Important note: the load regulation of the power supply used in the A-100SSB is not as good as the load regulation of the "big" A-100 power supplies (A-100PSU2, A-100PSU3 and the power supply of DIY kit #1). That's why we recommend not to use the A-100SSB with modules which are sensitive to supply voltage changes. In the first place VCOs are affected. If modules with changing loads (especially modules with LEDs) are installed together with VCOs pitch modulations may be the result. The A-100SSB should be used only with modules which are immune to slight supply voltage changes (typically control modules like ADSR, LFO, random and most of the sound processing modules like VCFs or VCAs)."

So I'm still looking for a small PSU + bus board for a total of

Most PSU are either to thick/large for a small case, or cost + (or more).

[monotrome]

Well done!

Corduroy!

What PSU did you use?

Thanks!

I'm using a 4ms Row Power 30, which has served me well. I can't recommend the 4ms Power Brick to go with it though - it was extremely noisy. I swapped it for a Meanwell brick which is a lot better.

[Plugler]

I'm using a 4ms Row Power 30, which has served me well. I can't recommend the 4ms Power Brick to go with it though - it was extremely noisy. I swapped it for a Meanwell brick which is a lot better.

Thank you!
Yes, I realize now, that if I want a flat case like yours, then no normal (build in) PSU will work, and I need one like "4ms Row Power 30".
Or an alternative:
https://www.modulargrid.net/e/modules/b ... ection=asc


Edit:
I think Tiptop Audio - uZeus would be a good PSU for my needs. And it costs only (excluding the needed external power brick, but I have a suitable one already)

Why did you choose the "4ms Row Power 30"? Does it have any advantages compared to the "uZeus"? It is nearly twice as expensive and has less power compared to the "uZeus" (if 3000mA power brick is used with the uZeus)...

[monotrome]

Why did you choose the "4ms Row Power 30"? Does it have any advantages compared to the "uZeus"? It is nearly twice as expensive and has less power compared to the "uZeus" (if 3000mA power brick is used with the uZeus)...

For me it's the +5V output which is only 170 mA on the uZeus and 1500 mA on the Row Power. The Monome Earthsea module, which also powers the Grid, needs a lot of 5V (up to 600 mA if I remember correctly) and the Row Power handles it flawlessly. There's also the possibility of powering the grid with an external 5V source which reduces the 5V power draw of the module significantly, but I find it more convenient powering the Grid from the module.

If 5V power draw isn't an issue for you, uZeus might be a good choice.

EDIT: More info on uZeus vs Row Power here: viewtopic.php?t=158237

[jmeisse]

I finished up my case this weekend. I made a ton of mistakes but I'm happy with the end result

[Jumbuktu]

...

Is there some reason I might be missing (besides aesthetics or bulkiness) that people don't tend to make 12u cases that are just big (near) squares? I'm planning on using it leaned up against a wall in a home studio -with a make noise control skiff for things I'll touch a lot.

As always, thanks for your thoughts.

Personally, I like to be able to reach every row easily from a seated position and (most importantly) read the panel text. As I age my eyesight gets poorer and poorer, and my studio is in a relatively darkish corner, even with LED spotlights above. I find vertical panels a bit hard to patch.

However, if a big square frame works for you, go for it!

[Plugler]

Why did you choose the "4ms Row Power 30"? Does it have any advantages compared to the "uZeus"? It is nearly twice as expensive and has less power compared to the "uZeus" (if 3000mA power brick is used with the uZeus)...

For me it's the +5V output which is only 170 mA on the uZeus and 1500 mA on the Row Power. The Monome Earthsea module, which also powers the Grid, needs a lot of 5V (up to 600 mA if I remember correctly) and the Row Power handles it flawlessly. There's also the possibility of powering the grid with an external 5V source which reduces the 5V power draw of the module significantly, but I find it more convenient powering the Grid from the module.

If 5V power draw isn't an issue for you, uZeus might be a good choice.

EDIT: More info on uZeus vs Row Power here: viewtopic.php?t=158237

Thank you!

Yesterday I stumbled across a link to a great DIY power supply from Frequency Central. It has 8 bus sockets. Enough power for a 3U skiff, easy to build and the PCB can be ordered via eBay for a good price:

Microbus DIY
"Microbus has been designed as an inexpensive solution for small Euro systems. It uses easily available parts, all of which you can source from Tayda for less than £5.00 GBP.
I recommend a 1000mA 12VAC wallwart for best results. This should give you ~500mA at +/-12V and 100mA at +5V."

And as I plan to build DIY modules and want therefor a dedicated PSU, I've also ordered this:

FC Power DIY
Essentially the same as the "Microbus DIY" above, but only with 1 bus socket. And it can be used in a skiff by adding a fliyng bus cable or a bus board...

The parts are easy to get all over the world. So, if I blow something at testing a DIY module, I can easily repair the PSU.

[Sleipnir]

Is there some reason I might be missing (besides aesthetics or bulkiness) that people don't tend to make 12u cases that are just big (near) squares? I'm planning on using it leaned up against a wall in a home studio -with a make noise control skiff for things I'll touch a lot.

As my system grew from a single 6u + skiff, I just kept adding 6u cases.
I made a 4" shelf/riser for them to sit on, so I could squeeze things (eg., Doepfer R2M controller box) under there, and also give the patch cables somewhere to droop.

That layout was really good. I play sitting, but patch standing (which IMO you pretty much need to at 12u unless your system is in your lap).
Eventually, I decided to get fancy with a Goike 15u (he uses a golden ratio curve for the shape).
The thing you don't realize about the curved systems until you play one, is there's no damn place for the cables to droop - except all over the control surfaces you lovingly placed in the bottom row.
There's also the problem of mounting screws binding between rows on the sharper angles, but that's only when you're building/rearranging.

If I was to do it again (i.e., my next case), I would do a slightly leaned back flat surface, with a built-in bottom spacer (where the P/S would nicely fit), to give room for a skiff in front. The new Pittsburg cases are built this way. You can see a sample layout like this in the 'post your euro system pics' thread - look for the username lisa - she's about on every page.

[Fidi]

I really enjoy my little case for PP and brains - simply cutted 3 plywood frames with a jigsaw and glued them together:

[philoking]

I have a lot of photos of the build process I can share if anyone is interested, but essentially I was using and didn't like the usability of 3 Pittsburgh Modular 420hp cases. The cases are great, using three of them at once isn't. I wanted some more room, so I bought a fourth PM 420hp case and designed my own desk that would hold all of them.

I used a band saw to cut a couple of the rail supports to add the angle. It's all Baltic Birch 1/2" plywood. The lights are a couple 24" under-cabinet lights wired to a switch on the back.

Now I can sit in my studio with my guitar in my lap and use the synth all I want, comfortably. It's a game changer for me. Yes, I know it's really hard to move, but I don't perform, it's a studio system.

https://youtu.be/JElf5Pww0Cc

About the patch: Other than an 8 note sequence in the Metropolis, and a single pattern on the Circadian Rhythms, it's all generative. A Make Noise Rene is driving the baseline, drones and feeding the quantizers, sequencers, etc. for transposing. The Z8000 is using a really long clock division sequence to keep evolving the drum beat, and an 8-channel switch is switching each drum between the two sequencers on different clock divisions that overlap. A Pressure points is driving the mix automation that's pulling things in and out, and it's direction is pulling an unclocked LFO so the decision of wether to go forward or backwards is randomish.

JB

[Artjam]

So this isn't 100% DIY but here's my $3 thrift shop briefcase with a Synthrotek skiff and bus cheeks mounted inside.



I initially started with just the skiff about a year ago then I picked up the bus cheeks while at Knobcon 2018. After that, the synth gods blessed me with the perfect size briefcase while browsing the thrift shop. I don't really have a concrete goal but I use my rig both by itself and in conjunction with my computer. Sometime soon I would like to build a more desk friendly case and this forum has a lot of great inspiration for when I start that project.

Also, this is my first post on the site so if anyone has any MW wisdom to pass on or tips on how to be the best wiggler I can be it would be much appreciated.

[dimleaffall]

Heres my custom 9U case from Atlas Cabs!! Its absolutely PERFECT for me. Love it!!!

[markelm]

Hello everyone! I just finished my very first eurorack case, which will house my very first modules (so far a 2018 Tides and a Veils I bought, and an o_C and 2 Ripples I built).

I underestimated how long it would take to build this case, but I am very happy with the result. Also learnt a ton of things that will come in handy next time I build one.

[markelm]

Sorry for the double post, but needed a second post to upload pics Here they are! The case is made of plywood, and covered with a vinyl wallpaper that looks like wood in metallic blue color.

[Plugler]

Yesterday I've built my first Skiff.

3U / 84HP

The aluminium frame is from Clicks & Clocks. Type: 3U-SN-84
Very high quality and exactly manufactured!

The PSU is from Frequency Central. Type: Microbus DIY
I've used a 12V AC wallwart with 1680mA from PeakTech, found it on eBay: https://www.ebay.de/itm/254067699132?Vi ... 4067699132
With this wallwart, the PSU should deliver ~750mA at +/-12V and 100mA at +5V.

I've added a flexible bus board, which is also from Clicks & Clocks. Type: BB-FLEX-7-50


Ready! Where are my patch cables?




Some pictures showing the build process...








I've used birch plywood with thickness of 10mm.
All measures are in mm:




BTW: I've used a small battery powered circular saw, combined with guide rail, to cut the wood in exactly the needed angles.
I've used this: https://www.bosch-professional.com/de/d ... 06016A1001
But any other comparable saw would work too, even with power supply via cable.

Here I cut the bottom piece. The saw is set to 15°:

[cackland]

I have a lot of photos of the build process I can share if anyone is interested
JB

Geez... this looks nice. Build photos would be great if you wouldn't mind sharing?

[S0210]

Hi,

Hopefully I find someone with a lot of experience converting old aluminium boxes.

Is there any neat trick to make these hinges take-apart-hinges? I hesitate to remove them completely and putting new hinges. :(



Regards, Andras

[GGW]

I have a lot of photos of the build process I can share if anyone is interested
JB

Geez... this looks nice. Build photos would be great if you wouldn't mind sharing?

That is a very nice job all right. I'm interested in your finishing process. The semi-matt black looks fine. Is it paint with a poly/lacquer coating?

[whatmeworry]

Really wish the weather would improve, so I can drag the table saw and planer outside and get my case finished. In the meantime I'll keep coming here for the inspiration.

Some truly great construction ideas going on in this thread.

[honeyb]

Build instructions:

1) Go to you local purveyor of fine wooden boxes.

2) Buy a box. Be sure to taste before buying.

3) Carefully open box. Remove one of the bottles and drink while you plan your rig.

4) Repeat until box is empty. It is encouraged to involve friends in the planning sessions.

5) Sand and finish box.

6) Insert rack and wriggle.

If you do it right, the box should cost as much as a few modules.